Omni operates out of what is essentially a bright white box on Dominion Rd, where you can look straight into the kitchen even when you’re standing out on the footpath.

It’s fitting for the restaurant’s sparse concept, which centres on yakitori cooked over binchotan (low-smoke white charcoal), plus a handful of other dishes, such as crunchy prawn toast, and a juicy sando that’s akin to a huge tsukune (chicken meatball) stuffed in between two circular pieces of white bread.

It’s short, it’s simple, and it works because everything is tasty. For the best value, we recommend you go for the “feed me” option, which runs at $65 and lets you try over half the menu. Small plates come in between sticks of yakitori, and most things are must-haves, including the eggplant tempura, which is a textural delight: light, crunchy, with a savoury, sticky, addictive umami.

Co-owners John Yip and Jamie Yeon work the kitchen and front-of-house respectively. Wines tend toward low-intervention (i.e. “natural”) and smaller producers. Every part of this restaurant is compact, modest and honest, with the kind of inviting neighbourhood feel that draws you back in.