Metro — Metro Top 50 Restaurants 2017: Orphans Kitchen

Jun 30, 2017 Restaurants

For the latest review, see the 2018 review of Orphans Kitchen .

Metro Top 50 Restaurants 2017: Orphans Kitchen

Orphans Kitchen

City-Fringe Bistro—Contemporary

As Ponsonby Rd develops into a glossier version of itself, Orphans’ artfully battered front door opens onto a different future. In here, two bright minds — chef Tom Hishon and manager Josh Helm — are pursuing a holistic approach to urban dining, where bees are kept on the roof, community gardens are invested in and oft-irrationally-discarded cuts of meat, parts of plants and wine bin ends are treasured. Pastel wooden panelling, repurposed teak tables and hand-blown glass lamps make the room feel like a welcoming apartment. Hishon’s fine-dining background subtly informs his style — there are few foams and reductions; rather, complex flavours are born out of organic processes such as fermenting, brining and pickling. The chance to rediscover old-school ingredients such as tongue, quince and kawakawa in new ways makes Orphans a unique dining experience.

A favourite dish
Organic chicken, kiwifruit mole and kumara tortillas.

What it offers

Shared-plate options / Good for vegetarians / Free-range chicken and/or pork / Bar / Craft beer selection

Hours—B L 7 days; D Tues-Sat
Bookings—Yes
Price—$$
Seats—85
Chef—Tom Hishon