There might be no restaurant on this list going through a tougher time than The Grove. Even before Covid brought tourism to a near standstill, The Grove’s home on St Patrick’s Square, just around the corner from the seemingly permanent construction zone that is Albert St, was in the middle of a maze of road cones and skip bins. So, while the restaurant’s owners must have been pleased to be named the 15th best fine-dining restaurant in the world on Tripadvisors’ Traveler’s Choice list 2021, I’m sure they’d gladly swap this accolade for safely reopened borders and a completed City Rail Link.

Despite what they’re up against, The Grove’s current chef, Ryan Moore, has really come into his own, producing food that is as good as, or in some instances better than, anything we’ve had there in some time. The menu being served during our judging period was finely attuned to the required comfort of eating out in the winter months — deep, earthy flavours and comforting textures with an overall warmth and generosity that made us want to eat there again and again if only the budget allowed. It was as homely a meal as you could possibly get in a fine-dining context. No more than the slightest smear was left on any plate as it was taken from our table.