Take a seat in view of the kitchen and you can see the chefs working away assuredly, flipping meat at the robata grill and rolling rice between their hands at the sushi bar.

It takes a lot of people to execute the contemporary

Japanese restaurant’s sprawling menu, which covers a wide range of the classics alongside flavours that feel uniquely Masu.

Everything is shared, so a meal here should always start with the sashimi moriawase, a mixed platter which often results in friendly fights over who gets what fish. If you miss out, though, you could always just get a little three-piece plate for yourself, especially of the bluefin tuna, if it’s available. If we were ordering, a healthy selection of vegetables, seafood and meat from the robata grill would definitely feature: catch us asking for at least three of the eggplant brushed in ginger miso and sesame, which you’ll find in the dictionary next to the word “umami”.

Though the popular Nichiyo brunch has been retired, Masu is still open on Sunday lunchtimes for its “yum cha”, where sashimi, maki, nigiri and other small dishes are wheeled around the dining room on purpose-built trolleys for diners to pile on their table.