It’s been three years since chef Lesley Chandra took over the stewardship of Sid and Chand Sahrawat’s first restaurant, Sidart. In that time, he’s largely maintained the adventurousness of the original concept, but has evolved the offering somewhat to reflect his Fijian roots. 

Whether you opt for the à la carte selections or indulge in a full tasting menu — 10 courses at $210 per person or six courses at $160 per person — you’re in for an exhaustive culinary journey. The menu, which essentially lists just the key ingredients in each dish, reads more like a riddle than an explanation, and is supported by an impressively remembered exposition from waitstaff. Plates show up composed of meticulously crafted leaves, moulded elements and flecks of delicate crumbs, and with assertive flavour profiles. The wine list is a treat, too: eclectic, with a good selection by the glass, from the affordable to the pricey. Chand’s nods to his heritage are most definitely the highlights of the menu. Both the “Mum’s fish curry” and the take on palusami are assured, interesting and delicious dishes. In fact, our visiting judge liked these Pacific directions so much they made a note that the menu should include many more.