Metro Top 50 Restaurants 2017: Culprit
For the latest review, see the 2018 review of Culprit.
Inner-City Bistro—Contemporary trolley service
Ex-Depot chefs Kyle Street and Jordan Macdonald’s first restaurant is located in a cavernous, exposed-brick loft on Wyndham St. Depot alumni can also be found on the floor, led by restaurant manager Nick Gallagher — a line-up that ensures no detail is missed. The dining experience is structured by trolley services at 6pm, 7pm and 8pm, when a selection of seasonal bites is wheeled around the restaurant’s tactile macrocarpa tables. Inventive, playful delights such as flat iron steak tartare (served on a waffle chip), duck and pumpkin tortellini and kahawai umami sashimi have us almost forgetting about the à la carte menu — a tragedy when braised pig face and pinot-poached West Coast turbot are on offer, along with other sonnets to less-popular species, cuts and vegetables. Slushy machine cocktails and a tidy wine list cap off a lively night. What fun.
A favourite dish
Chicken liver parfait with doughnuts, pinot-noir syrup and chard.
What it offers
Shared-plate options / Fixed-price meal options / Good for vegetarians / Free-range chicken and/or pork / Bar / Craft beer selection / Trolley service / Takes large groups
Hours—L Thu & Fri, D Tue-Sat (sittings at 6pm, 7pm and 8pm; pre-theatre at 5.30pm)
ChefS—Kyle Street & Jordan Macdonald
Level 1, 12 Wyndham St
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