If you happen to need the bathroom during dinner at Huami, you might pass by the dimly lit room where row upon row of ducks hang in preparation for the restaurant’s signature dish, the fruitwood-roasted Peking duck. It’s not hard to see why they’d need so many, as it is possibly the best version of the dish you can find in the city, especially the bubbly, crispy skin.

Billed as “contemporary Chinese”, the food spans many different regions, with Shanghainese, Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine making prominent appearances. In general Chinese fashion, the menu is extensive, so conversation with your server may be needed to make some difficult decisions. If you feel like taking full advantage of what Huami has to offer, order a live fish from one of its on-site tanks; a blue cod tastes sublime steamed with the light soya sauce. There’s also a version of the Fujianese dish “Buddha jumps over the wall”, thankfully without the original shark fin, but abalone (pāua), sea cucumber and fish maw instead.

Huami also does yum cha during its lunchtime, with many of the classics given a little twist: the har gao here has truffle, and the siew mai braised baby abalone. There are interesting drink options, too, including the “Huami baiju”, a rice liquor that has been aged 10 years and specifically made for the restaurant, and a very extensive gin list.