Sometimes, for one reason or another, nothing but a bowl of udon will do. In times like these, we go to Udon Works, where the noodles are as pale and silky and plump as they come. Nestle in at a table here and select from 20 different styles. Some are served hot — or as they call it here, “warm making” — in a heady, dashi-based broth, either as is or fancied up with tempura or fishcakes. Others are served cold, accompanied by sauces of soy or sesame and, if you like, a busy medley of sashimi. There are noodles immersed in Japanese-style curry, made entirely vegan, and even stained black with squid ink. All fantastically good slurping, whatever the weather.