Tell people you’re cooking food on an open fire, and they’ll come. That’s exactly what has happened at Milenta, anyway, a new South American-inspired restaurant in Victoria Park Market, that quiet city-centre shopping and dining precinct that hasn’t seen that much shopping or dining in recent years. Milenta, and its sister members-only club Shy Guy, is hoping to change that, having only opened earlier this year. The kitchen is open air – cooking over coals, remember – and so too is the dining room, mostly outdoor and evoking off-shore sun-soaked summer days, with all that transportive rattan, terracotta and wood, fitted out by Izzard Design. It’s certainly more pleasant during warmer months, and designed exactly for that, though radiant heaters and some well-placed blankets will get you through the cold.

The wood-coals isn’t just a gimmick, with that earthy smokiness apparent in the menu. Blackened and blistered okra, served with a circle of yellow mole; cos charred and accompanied by bright aji verde; hot, moreish arepas with beef cheek and queijo (cheese). And, of course, the best thing at Milenta: the aged ribeye steak that comes with bone marrow covered in chimichurri. From the fire, it is, simply, very good. There is also freshness elsewhere, with revolving versions of tiraditos and ceviches, as well as fresh and smoked oysters. For a bit of balance.

Oh, and, definitely make a booking in advance, especially if you don’t want to be sat in Shy Guy next door, which lends a different ambience. You’re welcome.