Change is both a part of life and freakily terrifying. And learning that an eatery you adore has changed hands can cause nerve-wracking alarm. This is how we felt when we heard that this Avondale eatery, renowned for its sought-after wok-hei-imbued dishes and infamous for its lack of Eftpos machine, had been taken over by new owners. We entered with trepidation and found that some things had changed: you can now pay by Eftpos. Fortunately, other things hadn’t: the food is still wonderful and permeated with wok hei flavour. We can happily recommend exactly what we always have here: something cooked in a wok. Namely, the char kway teow or the Hokkien noodles. We also find ourselves regularly daydreaming about the wat tan hor (which they call “Egg gravy rice noodles” on the menu), which is a pleasingly sloppy, umami-heavy dish served with a dish of chilli soy sauce on the side for you to douse it with — adding even more umami. You can choose to dine in or take away here, but we reckon true sublimity is eating al fresco at the one solitary table out the front of the shop.