Krishna Foods

Our visit to Krishna Foods felt like a reset. The food here is the kind that reminds you of simple, honest, homey pleasures. Between a laundromat and a dairy, the shop itself is small and tidy, almost austere, but for a smattering of tables to seat groups of twos or fours, a small sink to wash your hands and a cabinet housing handmade sweets. The menu is suitably concise to match, with chaat like spongy khaman dhokla, pani puri and a vada pav that’s a symphony of textures — squishy, crunchy, smooth, dry, moist. Three kinds of thali are composed of stacks of papad, dainty bowls of curries, pickles, and a sweet to finish, served on big round silver platters. And those curries? They’re exceptional. Impressively, there’s none of the usual shortcuts to flavour either — their heartiness is the product of the earthiness and complexity of layered spices, fresh ingredients and, presumably, a whole lot of time and care.