The aroma from this place is unmistakable: fresh herbs, fish sauce, char from the wok all signalling gutsy, spicy, fragrant Thai food served here by the bowlful. Not at all surprisingly (it’s in the name), the kitchen is underneath the restaurant’s floor, so there’s always a moment of anticipatory hunger-induced excitement as you spot your food being marched swiftly up the stairs. The Som Tum sharing platter is great for groups, and we like the street-food favorites: pad krapao, pad see ew, larb. Kiin also sells baggies of its pork crackling by the counter, which make for sinfully crunchy and salty snacks.