Tāmaki Makaurau’s pizza scene has been fermenting and bubbling away for a while now — though it’s still, arguably, very much in its early era. When Ooh-Fa opened in 2022, masterminded by Jono Thevenard, Kazuya Suzuki and Gemma Hareb (also the team behind Pici), it marked a milestone in this city’s pizza-eating life. 

Ooh-Fa’s concept is uncomplicated, paralleling Pici’s pasta-centric ethos: find something you’re really good at and stick with it. Here, it’s all about the pizzas plus a few perfectly curated sides to go with them, and a wine list emphasising, though not limited to, things that are natural and organic.

Flanked by a dairy and a hairdresser, the space is intimate, with just 22 seats, either up at the kitchen or at individual low tables, setting the scene for 90-minute seatings that are breezy but never rushed. The centrepiece of it all is a giant orb of a pizza oven that dominates the back part of the room.

And the pizza that pops out of this oven? So good. The crust is fantastic — light, puffy, flame kissed and slightly tangy, thanks to a 72-hour sourdough base. Purists who prefer little distraction from that wonderful crust will be happy with the barest-boned option, a tomato, garlic and oregano variant. For everyone else, there is an ever-changing selection of more inventive combinations — the lardo, mozzarella, parmesan and honey pie we had on a recent visit comes to mind. And should you need a sidekick to all that starchy goodness, go for the pistachio-spangled woodfired carrots with whipped ricotta.