Granted, the name of this place doesn’t inspire much intrigue, but don’t let that put you off. Upon visiting you’ll quickly figure out that the description “kebab joint” significantly underplays the situation. The joint does, of course, make kebabs, if that’s what you’re hunting for. But we come here for the formidable Afghan and Persian fare, which is curiously almost entirely unadvertised — blistered charcoal skewers with saffron rice; a dish of fried eggplant braised in a bath of tomato, peppers and garlic; steamed Afghan dumplings called mantu that come overlaid with a tangy sauce. It also sells the difficult-to-find drink doogh: a chilled fermented milk beverage. Proof that you should never judge a book by its cover — or a restaurant by its name.