We can’t find a Vietnamese dish in Auckland better than Try It Out’s phở dặc biệt, the “special” one which dares to include the works, including tripe. It’s a bowl that is muddled with deep, flavoursome complexity (that broth, made up of a million different ingredients and aromatics) and a mixture of textures — silky noodles, chewy tripe, thinly sliced rare beef — drawing us back every time. The familiarity of the dish is comforting, and so is the busy, cavernous room that’s been in Ōtāhuhu for as long as we can remember: no pretensions, no frills, just a long, leather-bound Bible of a menu that we aspire one day to fully master.