The only problem with Sim’s Kitchen is that, once you’ve discovered it, it takes a great deal of willpower to not visit constantly. You might find yourself instinctively driving in its direction or thinking up far-fetched excuses to journey across town to the shop in industrial Onehunga. This probably has something to do with the unique setting and the kind service. But mainly, as anyone who goes will quickly learn, it’s the food — the sort that sparks chemical reactions in your brain that in turn spark cravings in your soul. The char kway teow is rich, smoke-heavy and, unlike many iterations of the dish in this city, includes clams; the Hainanese chicken is ultra-fragrant and even more comforting; and the nasi lemak with all its little texturally enjoyable components is our favourite morning sustenance. Ordering a teh tarik (pulled milk tea sweetened with condensed milk) may bump the total price of your meal slightly above the $25 mark, but it’s worth it.