Every few moments another plate appears from this kitchen: chicken, usually with an auburn outer layer, in between brioche buns, propped on waffles or biscuits (the American kind), or served (as is traditional) with sliced bread and pickles. When you order your chicken there’s a spectrum of spice levels to pick from — five settings which range from absolutely not spicy at all to the type of clobbering heat that ricochets around your taste buds and sinuses. We’ll understand if you don’t want to go for the fullest-throttle, hottest option, but it seems a shame to come here and not brave at least a tiny bit of spice. And while we know it’s probably not the main reason you’ll make the trip, you should know that it also does the best American-style dessert pies in the city.