If you’re uncertain of whether the usual formality of fine dining is your thing, but still want to experience that genre of food, try Lillius. You can find it in a stretch of shops on Khyber Pass Rd at the Eden Terrace end, which, curiously, is a bit of a fine-dining hotspot. But owners and partners Shannon Vandy and Fraser McCarthy have created something down to earth and welcoming amid the impressively plush interior, which impresses with its jewel-like, blue-and-yellow colour scheme and a dramatic arched feature wall that separates the dining room from the open kitchen.

The restaurant is passionate about its ingredients and where they come from, which shows in the changing menu that refreshes every month or so. A dish of Tora Bay pāua with sweetcorn, seaweed and kohlrabi, presented underneath the shell, was elegant, bright-tasting and delicious. The Cambridge duck with pumpkin, coffee and endive (this is a common flavour combination here at Lillius, though the protein varies) was texturally playful, singing with a harmonious balance of bitter and sweet. It’s chef-driven food that is often genuinely exciting.