Josh Emett’s newest venture feels personal. Co-owned with his partner, Helen, Onslow is informed by the journey from London, to New York, and back home, with a combination of sophisticated Old World and relaxed modern. To find it, walk through the lobby of The International apartments and veer left. Inside, there’s a fit-out by architect Rufus Knight (who also designed the rest of the residential building) which is dark and dreamy, framed by soft curtains that pool at the floor. Through the back to the balcony, the city is at your feet, with a fabulous outdoor area that looks toward the Sky Tower, a bit of a boon during summertime.

Nowadays, restaurants encourage you to start with snacks (you’ll have noted it’s a recurring theme throughout these pages). At Onslow, they’re called “treats”, but the theory is the same: small, flavour-packed morsels that make you excited for the rest of the meal. The crayfish eclair is a real delight, the sort of thing you eat one of and feel bereft that it’s gone. In an ongoing clash of high and low, there’s also the OFC, where fried chicken is topped with some Oscietra caviar.

In the mains, the take is on dishes that skew towards English classics, such as duck breast with a side of duck sausage roll, and a slow-cooked lamb shoulder. If you want some theatrics with your meal, order from the salmon trolley: a server will carve gravadlax tableside.