In its simplest form, abura soba is a noodle dish similar to ramen, but without the broth. Instead, the flavor comes from a blend of oils and sauces beneath the noodles and toppings. When served, diners use chopsticks to swirl everything in the bowl together, then it’s ready to slurp.

Founded in Nagoya, Japan, fourteen years ago, abura soba restaurant Kajiken has expanded to over 100 locations worldwide, including China, Singapore, the US, Australia, and now central Auckland. 

At the branch situated in O’Connell St, the menu features seven varieties of noodles, all deeply umami and all extraordinarily comforting. On a recent rainy day, we ordered the original noodles, which involved a pile of bouncy noodles, chashu pork, menma, nori, scallions and “special sauce” – this is the most popular bowl on the menu, and for good reason. We also tried the roast beef noodles, which came topped with thinly sliced beef and a mix of crispy onions, scallions, chaliapin sauce, yoghut sauce, and a raw egg which amalgamated to created a bowl of savoury, glossy, goodness. 

Customization is encouraged at Kajiken. At the centre of each table are vessels filled with vinegar, chilli oil and sesame seeds, and additional toppings like chashu, egg, corn, and bamboo shoots can be ordered from the menu. There is also an assemblage of appetizers like takoyaki, gyoza and karaage. Oh, and they’re licensed, with a selection of sake, beer and chu hi to wash it all down with. For those who simply can’t go without broth, Kajiken offers a selection of tonkotsu-based ramen, which, while not the star of the show, seem to be made with the same care and precision as everything else.

Despite being a long way from where they originated, these bowls of noodles are still expected to replicate the same standards as one would find in Nagoya. Portions, ingredients, and equipment are all carefully chosen to exact specifications, and the noodles themselves are made locally to precise requirements and cooked in filtered water to ensure perfect springiness – its meticulousness you can taste.