You have to drive through a car park alongside a train track to discover this waterside gem. Copia is adjacent to Ōrākei Bay Village, overlooking the Basin with views out to the city skyline. The vista itself is a major feature — if you find yourself on an outdoor table, it’s almost as if you’re eating on the water. Service is fittingly relaxed, making it an easy weekday choice for locals in a part of town that has fewer good dining options than others.

The restaurant’s commitment to sustainability and ethical dining is declared at the very beginning of its menu, letting diners know that ingredients are harvested from gardens on site, alongside produce from like-minded suppliers (its website also states that it’s working towards becoming a zero-waste restaurant). Flavours here are big and bold, and although obviously ingredients-led, have a lot of moving elements. Take, for example, the best end of the Cardrona merino lamb, rolled and stuffed with herbs, pine nut and sultana, BBQ kūmara, crisp kale and tomato lamb jus: exactly what you need on a cold, wintery night.

If you have a little more time on your hands, we’d recommend lingering to take advantage of the great wine list, too, which has plenty to offer, with a focus on naturals and biodynamic choices, and ending the night with the lovely, intense lemon curd dessert.