Photo: Tess Nichol

Metro Recommends: The pork ramen from &Sushi

Metro Recommends is a regular recommendation of food we love, whether it's an unsung hero we want to share with the world, or a crowd favourite we can't help but sing the praises of.

Last week: A Hokkaido baked cheese tart

I have a confession to make. I’m kind of over &Sushi’s sushi. Sure, it looks nice with the little flowers on top and the artful blobs of sauce, but it’s often a little dry, slightly underwhelming and also, extremely expensive!

If you’re going to treat yourself to $18 worth of anything at &Sushi, don’t make it variations of avocado and salmon with rice. Instead, get yourself a bowl of their winter special pork ramen. 

Oh, man, this pork ramen. I’m totally obsessed. I’ll break it down into the sum of its parts, ranked, because it’s Friday and your brain is tired and everything is easier to understand in list form.

5. The noodles themselves

I’ll level with you, these are the least impressive part of the dish. They’re Maggi-like in texture, nothing special. However, a Maggi noodle is still a very yum noodle and they are firm and springy and get the job done. I always end my bowl wishing I had a few more. 

4. The little pile of sprouts and spring onion and long thin threads of something red I thought was saffron but isn’t

Fresh and flavoursome and inviting! The not-saffron makes you feel fancy! It’s so delicate and fine and tastes citrusy. I like to eat a few sprouts before stirring the little pile into my broth. A pre-lunch snack, if you will.

3. The broth

This broth, it’s something else aye. It’s silky and hearty and warming and packs an incredible savoury punch, with a hint of smokiness from the pork. I slurp it up at the end like a greedy little goblin, because I’m a real waste not want not kinda gal.

2. The pork

My go-to meat when eating out used to be chicken, every time. What an idiot, I'm embarrassed. Can’t believe the time I wasted chewing on dry old chicken breast when I could have been enjoying succulent cuts of pork belly, so rich and so soft they fall apart when you snare them in your chopsticks. The pork is smoky and full of flavour, and I love the textural difference between the top of each piece, which is smooth and almost gelatinous (but not in a gross way somehow) and the bottom, which is meatier and firmer.

1. The egg! 

Can you beat a ramen egg? How do they get it so perfect every time, with that soft rich yolk in the centre just begging to get swirled about in the broth? Special.

&Sushi, in Newmarket and the City Works Depot. Winter special pork ramen: $18.

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