For one reason or another, restaurants like this — often described using the extraordinarily broad-brush term ‘Indian’ and preoccupied, for the most part, with serving ‘curry’ — tend to earn very little cultural capital when compared to the newer wave of restaurants focused on street food and regional cuisines. Mostly, this is a good thing: it means we’re expanding our taste buds and knowledge of a wildly varied cuisine. Indian food is not just curry. Still, we shouldn’t forget to acknowledge the art of curry-making and when it’s done especially well. This spot in Howick, located in an unremarkable-looking strip mall, is one of those instances. The phenomenal curries feature lumps of meat cooked till sublimely tender and gravies that are textured and thick enough to cling to the meat. There are also many types of bread, cooked in a tandoor (we recommend the missi roti). Curry house favourites are plentiful, but there are also deep cuts, like the tawa rarha murg which is spiked with rum and is perhaps the most wonderful curry we’ve ever eaten in this city. And if getting some means a drive out to Howick and eating it in a sparse dining room underneath a kitschy triptych print of a horse, even better.