Two Fifteen

215 Dominion Rd, Mt Eden. Ph 630-6474, twofifteen.co.nz.
Lunch Friday; dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

You get the sense with some of Auckland’s suburban bistros that no one — in the kitchen or out the front — is trying to do anything special. Two Fifteen, in the hands of owner/chef Jeremy Schmid (above), reveals just how much better they could be. Schmid runs a wonderful little place: the warmly inviting dining room is a haven from the ugly street outside, the service is quick, polished and friendly, and the wine list displays terrific discernment. Most of all, the food is just great. Simple combinations, usually with a flavour-sharpening edge, cooked with an artisan’s commitment. Schmid is a meat guy (Little Boys sausages is his brand), and it shows on the menu: a pig’s trotter stuffed with chicken served with sweetbreads, anyone? But he’s also committed to his greens, and three of the nine mains on his recent menu were vegetarian. That’s probably a record in this town. There are also artisan ice blocks, a great kids’ menu and, dotted throughout the offerings, some wonderful classics. Sticky date pudding! $$$

4 Spoons

A Favourite Dish: Pork and Italian cheese sausage with potato purée and buttered cabbage.

Good for Vegetarians / Free-range Chicken and/or Pork / Private Room / Takes Large Groups / Bar / Craft Beer Selection / Good for kids