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The Culpeper

May 24, 2016 Restaurants

The Culpeper

Photo: Ken Downie

22 Princes Wharf. Ph 320-4373, theculpeper.co.nz
Hours: Breakfast Sat-Sun; Lunch and Dinner 7 days. $$

Finalist, Best New Restaurant

 

What makes it special?

Hoping someone would open a restaurant with lots of really good big-flavoured food, right on the waterfront, without it being an upmarket wear-your-society-face-and-best-heels kind of place? Well, now they have.

Behind the scenes

Everybody’s doing brisket, right? And yet, not many are doing it as well as The Culpeper: 14 hours on the fire, sweet, smoky, fall-apart tender. Quite a lot of restaurants are doing whole fish without the head, too, but again, few present as magnificent a version as Gareth Stewart does here: cooked in the fire pit, deeply infused with flavour. There are some very clever salads, and curly fries, seasonal roasted corn, the bar food you’d expect: it’s a menu to elevate the senses, in a location to elevate the heart.

A favourite dish

Line-caught market fish cooked on the bone, with green papaya, iceberg lettuce and nam jim dressing.

What it offers

Shared-plate options / Free-range chicken and/or pork / Good seating outside / Semi-private room / Takes large groups / Bar / Craft beer selection / Good for kids

 

3 spoons

Inner-City Bistro
Bookings: Yes
Price: $$
Seats: 80
Chef: Gareth Stewart, executive chef

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In the Spring 2025 issue of Metro: Find out where to eat now in Tāmaki Makaurau with our top 50 restaurants, plus all the winners from Metro Restaurant of the Year. Henry Oliver picks at the seams of the remaking of the New Zealand fashion scene. Matthew Hooton puts the exceptional talent for Kiwi whinging on blast and Tess Nichol recounts her ongoing efforts not to pay attention to everything. Plus Anna Rankin pens a love letter to the 20th Century, a short story from Saraid de Silva and Bob Harvey assists the walls of Hotel DeBrett in talking. Oh, and last, but not least, it’s the end of an era.

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