Cocoro (4)

56a Brown St, Ponsonby. Ph 360-0927.
cocoro.co.nz
Lunch & dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

When Makoto Tokuyama opened Cocoro last year, it was a revelation and, we hoped, an inspiration to others. Cocoro is modern Japanese: in a lovely room that has traditional Japanese notes but doesn’t insist on being all bamboo and blossom branches, they serve beautiful, beautiful food. No forests of shredded vegetable tangles; instead, tempura as light as air; sashimi presented as precious little slabs of joy; all manner of concoctions to surprise and delight, and one of the very best steaks you’ll find in town, too. The best way to sample these culinary pleasures is with the “omotenashi”, or six-course degustation menu, but if you’re not up for that, don’t worry — it’s all good. The sake list is outstanding and the wine list is pretty good, too. Cocoro has not yet inspired a rash of imitators, and we’re disappointed about that, because we think it’s one of the top half-dozen restaurants in the whole city.

A favourite dish: Octopus sashimi ceviche with myoga ginger.
$$$$  |  FP  |  D  |  V  |  FR       what’s this?

WINNER
Best Asian Restaurant
WINNER
Best Short Drinks List