Much has been said about what New Zealand food really is, and this new restaurant by Ben Bayly is in many ways his answer. Inspired by Aotearoa-based producers, suppliers and ingredients, Bayly and his team have pushed forward what is unique and important to our country and showcased stories of provenance and flavour. (He’s also highlighted these stories in a TV show, called, funnily enough, A New Zealand Food Story.) The space at Ahi is reflective of this kaupapa, with an expansive use

of reclaimed native timber invoking a singular sense of place, and a woven New Zealand-grown oak ceiling representing kete.

Ahi means “fire” in te reo Māori, and the restaurant’s name nods to its place in cooking as well as in spirit. Nearly every item on the menu is labelled with the region it hails from. In the snacks section, you’ll find a collection of evolving bites that succinctly introduces diners to Ahi’s cuisine, like the kawakawa sourdough, tahr tartare (from Southland) with fermented hot sauce, and a flamed sardine (from the Whangārei Harbour) with feta and pinoli.

Don’t overlook the entrées, and trust us when we tell you to get the mushrooms: from Ora Farms in Mangawhai, they come with umami-packed shiitake broth, egg and black fried rice, plus great contrasting textures. The mains are meat-heavy — vegetarians may have to stick to the small stuff — and come with interesting accompaniments, such as hemp granola and malted cauliflower.